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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.